Day 3 Cabin Bottom (Tower Park) to Jasper Canyon, 15.5 miles, 6 hours 40 minutes.
Even after the late night I was out of the tent and snapping photos by 7:25 am. The morning sun was glorious as it reflected off the red cliffs.
Morning on the river.
Our campsite.
The remains of the cabin are behind the tree.
A wall and roof support.
Not much left of the cabin, just the stone walls.
Our neighbours and their table.
Overnight while I was taking pictures of the night sky I thought I could smell propane. Our neighbours discovered that they had not turned the stove off correctly and consequently all their propane had leaked out. Luckily they were experienced and brought their backpacking stove and fuel as back up. We had our breakfast and coffee and then set off to explore the area with the goal of seeing the petroglyphs at the far end of the bottom. According to the guidebook petroglyphs are always found on trails and near good camping areas used by the Anasazi. We headed off on our morning adventure at 8:30 am.
Heading down Cabin Bottom. There were many trails through the grass which made the walking was quite easy.
The backside of Turks Head, where we will be in 2 1/2 hours.
Looking back from the small climb to the petroglyphs.
It was a 2 km walk to the petroglyphs. There were many trails initially through the grassy area. As we got closer to our destination the trails all funneled into one trail and it was quite easy to find our way. We arrived at the art panels at 9 am. It was well worth the walk.
The first panel.
Frosty enjoying themselves.
A very busy panel.
Frosty and I are all smiles.
It is amazing to think someone around a thousand years ago took to time to etch their thoughts into the rock and now we can look on it in wonder.
View from Cabin Bottom of Turks Head. The cliff in the shade to the left of Turks Head is Willow Flat and to right is Grand View Point.
A photo that I took in 2013 of the view from Willow Flat lookout in Islands in the Sky of the Turks Head area.
Close up view of the above photo showing where the petroglyphs are on Cabin Bottom and our route to find the Anasazi Ruins on Turks Head.
Laura with one of the panels of petroglyphs. It is a warm day.
The backside of the rock with Turks head. The spire on the very left is Candlestick Tower.
Close up of the photo above.
It is a beautiful day for a walk. Looking back to our campsite at the north end of Cabin Bottom.
Just a fun cliff. The slope of the Organ Shale is below the steep cliffs of the White Rim Sandstone.
Frosty taking the King’s advice to always relieve oneself when provided the opportunity.
We were back at camp by 9:40 am. Efficient packing had on the river at 10 am. It was approximately a 4 mile trip to the far side of Turks Head Bottom where we going to attempt to access the bottom. While it was getting warm when we were on our little hike it is always a few degrees cooler on the river so we were both bundled up once back in the canoe.
Heading into the first bend that would take us around Turks Head. The green to the left is Tuxedo Bottom. With a name like “Tuxedo” you would think that the bottom had an interesting history. Not really. It was named after a can of tobacco found there left by some miners, Tuxedo Tobacco.
Looking at the west side of Turks Head.
Very interesting rock formations in the Organ Shale.
I thought I saw a landing spot as we rounded the bend to the north-west of Turks Head. We we able to land and tie up the canoe. We spent several minutes battling the tamarisks before heading back to the canoe to look for a better landing spot. The guidebook did clearly state that the best landing sites were where the cliffs came right down to the river at the south end of Turks Head Bottom.
All tied in.
A very small beach for landing on. It was very dense brush.
Once back on the river it took us another 30 minutes to find a good landing spot, right where the guidebook said to go. We were on land and walking just after 11:30 am. There was good trail through the brush. Once we emerged from the brush into the open fields I was a little worried about finding our way back to the canoe. I hung one of our bright orange life jackets in a tree to identify where the trail back to the canoe was.
Impromptu trail marker.
Looking out across to Soda Springs Canyon. There is no easy way up onto the plateau.
There was well defined trail along the cliffs to the lower set of Anasazi structures. It took us about 10 min to walk from where I left the life-jacket to the first structure.
Frosty enjoying the view.
Amazing to think that hundreds of years ago people lived here in these structures.
Excellent masonry work.
What caught my eye was the folds in the layers in the roof.
Well built, do not think my house will look this good after several centuries of use.
One last look.
Laura scrambling up the through the cliffs. Did need some hand holds to pull yourself up but the scrambling was very safe.
View from the bench east across to Soda Springs Canyon on the right.
Some very interesting weathering patterns on the rocks.
Looking up at Turk Head. The weaker Organ Rock Shale is eroding under the much harder White Rim Sandstone forms the shape of Turks Head.
I had great difficulty finding the Anasazi houses below Turks Head. There is a lot of red rocks. I am quite sure that Laura was getting near the end of her patience as I wandered around the plateau looking somewhat lost. In desperation I used the picture from the guidebook to match up with what I saw until I was able to get in the right spot to see the structures which were in the shade (picture is lightened up).
Frosty grabbing some shade.
The crossbedding in the sandstone indicates sand dune migration.
Solid construction.
The structures are quite sheltered and have lasted very well.
Have some mortar holding the rocks in place.
Catching some rays with Frosty. Still got my paddling gloves on.
Found the life jacket and the trail back to the canoe.
Laura making her way back across the field.
We spent almost 90 minutes exploring Turks Head Bottom. It was 1 pm when we were back on the river. We only paddled about 1 mile before pulling in at a natural dock to have lunch. We had a lovely tamarisk free view of the river.
Almost like a natural dock.
Everything is securely tied up.
Laura taking in the view while we relaxed and had our lunch.
View up Soda Springs Canyon to Willow Flat were I had taken the photos on our trip back in 2013. Candlestick Tower is just peaking around the end of the trees on the left.
View looking downstream of our picnic area.
Getting ready to head back out on the river.
Laura looking ahead to Deadhorse Canyon as we pass by Arla Bottom on our right.
The rock of our little lunch spot divide Turks Head Bottom from Arla Bottom named for the wife of a rancher. Arla Bottom is the last named green space beside the river as they become smaller and less frequent. There is a panel of petroglyphs a short hike up Deadhorse Canyon but we decided that we would stay on the river as we still had 12 miles to go before our planned camp at Jasper Canyon. It was 1:45 pm and we had only actually traveled about 4 miles on the river.
The light green on the right marks the entrance to Deadhorse Canyon.
I just thought this looked like a cool rock.
Really, another Canada Goose.
A small canyon offering a rare long view up to the rim.
The river fundamentally changes after this point as the cliff forming Cedar Mesa sandstone rises from the depths. The cliffs become steeper and higher and the canyon much narrower.
Laura has her long sleeves off. So much to look at.
More Canadian Geese in flight.
They maybe just Canada Geese, but any bird in flight is majestic.
The red cliffs are closing in on us.
The mouth of Horse Canyon. Camping spots available but our plan was to put in another 4.5 miles.
This is looking back up river. Horse Canyon is to the left. Horse Canyon offers the rare opportunity to hike out to the White Rim Road. The canyon is blocked by a dry fall so access is actually back up the river at about mile 16 a short steep canyon that offers a route onto a bench of the Cedar Mesa Sandstone. Following the elevated bench would allow a hiker to bypass the rock fall and access Horse Canyon. The hike to rim would require a two day backpacking trip to come back to the river.
There is quite a large green area to our left but no camping spots where indicated in the guidebook.
The walls of the canyon have become very steep. You can see the thick slab of White Rim Sandstone on the top protecting the softer layers below. This is coming up on mile 12 before the confluence and just 2 1/2 miles to Jasper Canyon.
Hard to see but on the water in the distance to the left of Laura’s hat are people in a red canoe. One of the few boaters we saw on the river.
Jasper Canyon is jut past the protruding cliff at centre to left. Almost home for the evening.
If I remember correctly arriving at Jasper Canyon was a bit hectic. The group we had camped beside the previous night where already at Jasper Canyon and had taken the obvious place to dock. Being on the outside of the river the water was flowing quite fast and we had to work hard to get the canoe onto the shore and we may have bumped the other canoes a little. Needless to say with a little help we go the canoe stopped and secured. Once on land there were many choices for camping at Jasper Canyon so we picked a place that would provide some privacy for both ourselves and the other group. In fact I do not remember seeing them for the rest of the evening and they left quite early the next morning. It was about 3:45 pm when we made landfall. We had traveled another 15.5 miles down the river and had some fun little hikes along the way. Only 13 miles left for tomorrow to Spanish Bottom.
Looking back up river from Jasper Canyon.
Looking across the river, the moon is out.
Ahhhh, cold beer! The fun group from the day before gave us a couple of beers. We saved them for the end of this day and I was so glad. Never has a beer tasted so good.
Happy campers. Next time need to bring more beer.
There is a lonely structure up on the the upper bench.
Close up of the ruins.
Was a little scramble to get up to the ruins.
Frosty enjoying a cool one and the view after a long day on the water.
Looking down at where Laura stayed. The sun is setting behind the cliffs and it is now cool enough that Laura wants her jacket on.
Looking back up river.
Paw prints. Coyote I suspect.
Laura taking a long look at the river as she finishes off her beer.
Someone must have tried to make a dock or mining structure.
Almost 6 pm. Time to set up camp and make dinner.
Laura getting to work erecting our portable three person chateau.
Million dollar view.
Pasta! Seems to be a theme on this trip.
We had a fairly late dinner eating at 6:45 pm. With the higher and narrower canyon darkness came quicker on this night. Unlike the past two evenings we did not do any exploring after dinner. We would save the exploring for the morning. We went to bed a little earlier than on previous nights. Just after 9 pm I got out of the tent and took some nighttime shots of the sky and had Laura light up the tent with a headlamp. The effects worked out pretty good.
